In Cajun country, what marks a boucherie is the gathering of multiple generations to slaughter a pig, cook it in various forms filling the day before feasting and family traditions of music, storytelling and ultimately, “passing a good time.”

A mixture of generations gathered on the Rochon farm in Olivier New Year’s Day commemorating a family tradition that had almost died out. A.D. Vitto revived the winter boucherie two years ago at his mother’s home on the Rochon property.

“My dad was a farmer and we lived off the land in Glencoe,” said Vitto. “We raised everything from pigs to duck, turkeys, chickens, vegetables, everything we ate we raised, that’s all we did. When he worked, we took care of the garden and the animals.”

Vitto said as they got older, the generations strayed from the old family tradition of having a boucherie in the winter months near Christmas or New Year’s Day. A lot of the communities and families are falling apart, he said, and bringing this together got everybody back.

“I can’t even give you a number of years we missed. (The boucherie) died off completely. It’s exciting to see family happy doing a boucherie again, that’s what made me bring it back to New Iberia,” Vitto said.

Starting the Day Early

The day began at sunrise with Vitto, Jules Ford, Darrell John, Edward Williams, Sam Washington, “Peanut,” Sly Thomas, Sedrick Rochon and Nathanial “Chip” James butchering the two hogs purchased from a local farmer.

Sly Thomas, 64, of the older generation who has been part of many boucheries, said the cleaning process includes boiling water in big kettles then pouring it over the hide. It is then scraped with a cane cutter or knife. Another pass with a sharp skinning knife, like shaving, gives the skin a smooth texture free of the fine hairs.

“There’s an art to it,” Thomas said. “I’ve been doing this since I was young, all my people were from the country.”

Thomas and his wife, Martha, have brought their children and grandchildren to spend the day at the boucherie. In June they’ll return for the Rochon Family Reunion. About 300 people will gather from around the nation to cook their own way until the family units compete for a coveted volleyball tournament complete with a trophy at end of the day.

Natural Order of Eating

Vitto said not everyone liked the idea of slaughtering the pig, not realizing the same thing happens for the meat found in supermarkets.

“A lot of the food we eat now is not good for you,” Vitto said. “We know what we’re putting in our body because the people we bought the hogs from raise them, and we know what they are feeding them. We know they’re not giving them steroids. With good quality pig, I know what’s in my freezer.”

Vitto said as a coach at Westgate High School, his time is limited as far as raising pigs. To have a boucherie not only brings back the family tradition, but ensures the quality meat he wants to eat.

Boiling Down the Cracklins

Most people might have the assumption cracklins are fried in a big vat of oil. In fact they are, but Vitto said starting with a pot of cracklin pieces in a small amount of water is an old-time tradition. As the fire heats the kettle containing the water and raw chunks, the fat begins to cook out replacing the water.

As the pot is stirred with long paddles over an open fire, the water evaporates and the natural oil cooks out of the pork and remains to fry the cracklins.

Stations for Cooking

Once the pig is processed into the various portions, men and women gravitate to various stations for cooking. Underneath the tent, that eventually moved to cover the cracklin fire, were large heavy cast iron pots where neckbones and liver portions were smothered down with seasoning.

“Nothing is wasted. Somebody in the family eats what others in the family don’t eat,” Vitto said.

For the most part the men cooked outside, the women took care of the inside duties.

Preparation of the boudin takes hours and several stages. First the carving of all the other products which leaves scraps including giblets.

The meat was first cooked in a large boiling pot that also created the liquid used to blend the rice, trinity mix and shredded pork pieces.

After cooking, the meat was ground, or thanks to modern food processors, processed and mixed with two huge pans of rice. Seasonings were added to achieve the desired flavor.

Veteran cooks, Martha Thomas and Jeanelle Greene showed the new generation, including Robin Malveaux, one of the family friends that helped Vitto organize the event, and other young family members how to press the boudin into the casings.

The sausage casings were purchased from a local butcher. The old press required strength from one of the younger Rochon men to push the meat through the small tube.

The final stage was boiling links in a small amount of water, or steaming, the boudin. A few were also added to the barbecue pit where earlier pork chops, ribs and tenderized pigs feet were grilled.

Food Served All Day

There is rarely a point in time at a boucherie where a sit-down dinner can be enjoyed by all.

With more than 100 people expected throughout the day, and each pork product rolling out at different times, it was easy to miss the consumption if not present at the time it was finished cooking.

Thomas announced to newcomers arriving late they missed the barbecued pigs feet eaten by the men standing around the pit when they were cooked.

The same thing happened as the first cracklin pot was done. They were gone. Next batch started.

Inside, the ladies of the family and friends had prepared smothered cabbage, black eyed peas and plenty of rice.

No one left hungry and for those who stayed until the end, a dance was held at the Zydeco club down the street, also part of the Rochon family legacy.