Secrets of okra

Published 5:00 am Wednesday, June 21, 2017

Preparing the okra in advance keeps if from being slimy.

Harvesting now, okra can be prepped for later use

First of all, there are no two gumbos alike, period, said Chef Alex Patout, enjoying his time in the fields of Acadiana waiting for a new assignment to begin.

“Each family passes down their personal opinions as to how to make it. And that’s what makes our gumbo culture,” Patout said. “ ‘My mom, dad, grandma, did it THIS way!’ So there is no argument as to who is right or who is wrong. But we all agree it must taste great.”

With okra being fresh and chicken on sale, Patout made Chicken and Okra Gumbo. He uses a dark roux kept in the refrigerator ready to go. Cut up a whole chicken, boil it, debone and make chicken stock, but not too much water, he said. Dice up the cooked chicken. Smother the okra with smashed whole tomatoes — best fresh off the vine — onions, bell pepper and a little vegetable oil until very tender.

Add chicken stock, some roux, seasoning — which for Patout is always salt, red or cayenne pepper, black and white peppers — and it let cook about an hour on slow simmer, covered.

“This is where the questions of soup or stew comes in,” Patout said. “I like my gumbo more like a soup, but for this dish I like it more as a stew. You’re beginning to see the dilemma.”

There is no one definition for gumbo, Patout said. If you like your chicken and okra gumbo more soupy, great. He likes the okra profile to be more predominate — he likes okra. Taste for seasoning, as always. Add diced chicken and cook for a half hour more. Top with freshly chopped onion tops and parsley and serve over rice. That’s chicken and okra ala Alex Patout.

More About Okra

Whenever Cajuns gather at mealtime, it is customary for the conversation to be dominated by what is going to be eaten at the next meal.

“The next special meal, the next special event or the next holiday meal. We are always thinking ahead,” said Patout. “With that in mind, you must do okra NOW! Why? Because unlike other vegetables like corn or eggplant, you can’t find the same okra in the stores like we can find right now.”

First of all, never use frozen, cut okra — period, Patout said. Second of all, there is a difference even with fresh okra. The most common is what I call “factory” okra. All the same size: small. That’s the kind the factory wants to process, all the same size so that they can be cut uniformly.

“The other kind is what I call ‘rib’ okra. It is bigger and has more flavor. Most people only know factory okra, even in New Orleans. The only rib okra I can find is in the country and it’s available NOW! And if you don’t act NOW it will be gone.”

Patout gives cooks a call to action. Find it, process it and freeze it for your next meal, special event of holiday occasion. It will be worth the effort, he said.

Why Process Okra?

Unlike other vegetables like onions, bell pepper or celery you can’t add it as a raw item. It must be cooked first, Patout said.

“How many times have you watched other people making gumbo and add frozen, cut okra and say ‘let it cook for half hour?’ It doesn’t work,” Patout said. “Most people who say they don’t like okra say that it is slimy. It’s slimy when it’s not cooked correctly. You must smother it first.”

It’s a simple process but it is the only way to handle it that will bring out the flavor and not the slime, Patout said.

“This is not a recipe because you will use it in different dishes. It is a process. No seasoning. It is an okra base. Whenever you go to use the okra it will be the flavor you want and then you can make the dish you desire,” Patout said. “Chicken and Okra Gumbo, Shrimp and Okra Gumbo, Seafood Gumbo or just Smothered Okra. So let’s get started.”

Rib okra looks bigger and longer. There may be some hard ones in the bunch, just throw them away. If they are picked correctly they will be soft.

Cut the upper stem off. Some people cut the bottom as well. It’s up to you. Slice okra 1/4-inch thick. Now let’s cook, Patout said. In a large Dutch oven add a little vegetable oil and some diced onion.

“I like canned whole tomatoes cooked with the okra. It’s optional, but if you do use tomatoes, use whole ones smashed by hand to get a smooth texture,” Patout said.

Mix all ingredients together well using your hands. Cook over a low fire, covered and stirring often.

“This big batch was done in an hour and a half,” Patout said. “When it’s this fresh it doesn’t take long. Let cool, pack in small packages and you are ready for the freezer.”

Preparing okra in advance as well as canning tomatoes and other vegetables harvesting throughout the summer is a wise habit of home style cooks — and chefs.