While playing football at McNeese State University, Abbeville native David Bertrand started bartending at Judge Roy Bean’s Saloon in Lake Charles (yes, there was one outside of Lafayette) owned by Earl Hebert and Charlie Goodson. After Judge Roy Bean’s became Scarlett O’s, owner D. C. Flynt lured Bertrand away from football to manage the upscale restaurant and bar. Now, Bertrand is going back to where he started, by opening a new Shucks! located on the Contraband Bayou.

By Lisa Hanchey

Before becoming Shucks!’s proprietor, Bertrand and wife Susie worked in ritzy restaurants in Aspen, Co., catering celebrity events. After three seasons of living the high life, the couple returned to Abbeville and opened Bertrand’s (nicknamed “Little Bertrand’s) in a former KFC on Charity Sreet. Little Bertrand’s served plate lunches during the day and steaks by night.

During the same period, the Bertrands took over the Riverfront restaurant, converting it to Abbeville’s first fine dining spot. Bertrand’s mentor Goodson, along with his late wife Del, helped with the transition. “I still consider Charlie to be one of the best restaurateurs in the State,” Bertrand says fondly.

In the mid-90s, the Bertrands sold Riverfront, and David started selling restaurant insurance. During his new career, one of his clients was Shucks!, then-owned by Linda Hebert, Diane Hebert Phares and her husband Jack. For years, the Hebert sisters’ parents, former oystermen Doris and Harold Hebert, had operated Dupuy’s oyster bar. When Linda, Diane and Jack bought Shucks! In 1995, Dupuy’s cook and staff followed.

While handling Shucks!’s insurance, Bertrand frequently dined at the popular oyster bar and seafood spot. Eventually, he began missing the restaurant business, and told the owners, “If you ever think about selling, let me be the first in line.”

Bertrand searched for a business partner, finding Bert Istre, a graduate of the University of Louisiana-Lafayette’s hotel and restaurant management program, who was the owner of Golden Corral. In 2007, Bertrand and Istre officially purchased Shucks!, retaining all staff. “We still have five of Shucks!’s original employees,” Bertrand says proudly. Among Shucks!’s treasured employees was the late Sylvia Renee Hunt, whom Bertrand describes as the “heart of Shucks!.”

Shucks!’s loyalty in staff and customers makes it the success it is today. Bertrand kept the original menu, making only two changes – adding a hot buttered rum sauce to the white chocolate bread pudding, and tweaking the oyster stew recipe. “I just want to serve the best food we can serve,” he promises.

And that he does, offering only the freshest oysters, shrimp, crabmeat and fish, authentic Cajun dishes and even great steaks. With so many delicious choices, Bertrand recommends that newcomers start with the Oyster Sampler – a dazzling combination of Traditional, Rough-Neck, Rockefeller, Shuck-a-Fella and Candied. Another popular starter is the Sassy Shrimp – six large Gulf shrimp, fried in a light batter and served with Shucks!’s own Sugar Cane Pepper Glaze (you’ll want to buy a bottle to take home). For the brave – or not so brave at heart – try the Gator Bites – marinated alligator served with French dipping sauce. This gator is so mild and tender that your guests will never guess what it is. Crustacean fans should definitely try the Crab Cake – lightly grilled Louisiana Blue Point Crabmeat topped with a roasted bell pepper and dill cream sauce – which is all crab and no filler.

Traditionalists love Shucks!’s Crawfish Etouffée, made the authentic way. Bertrand, a first-generation English-speaker, garnered his culinary skills while watching his Cajun mom cook. At Shucks!, he serves her original recipe, smothering the onions and bell peppers until the sugars are released, then adding crawfish at the very end to avoid overcooking.

Another customer favorite is Crab Meat Au Gratin – crabmeat blended with blended cheeses and served in a casserole dish. Rich, creamy and cheesy, it’s amazing! Oh, and there’s the Seafood Pasta, featuring Carbonara Sauce (cream sauce with bacon), grilled crawfish and shrimp, and mushrooms served over angel hair pasta. It’s so good that “You’ll clean your plate!” the menu promises.

On the lighter side is the Panbroiled Shrimp (or steak – which is excellent, by the way) and Veggie Bowl, served hot off the grill. And the salads are anything but ordinary and loaded with your choice of shrimp, chicken or seafood. Try Shucks!’s homemade Sugar Cane Vinaigrette or Remoulade sauce as a dressing.

Already, Shucks! has expanded to the next generation with the addition of Bert’s son, Zachary Istre, three years ago. Zac joined at the right time – the new Lake Charles location is projected to open early next year. But it won’t open until David and Bert are sure that every item tastes as good as Shucks!’s in Abbeville. “We’re trying to put out the best food we can,” Bertrand says. “Bert and I are always looking for ways to improve – always.”

MUST HAVE DISHES

Oy(ster), Vey!

The Oyster Sampler is a great way to start your experience at Shucks!. Featuring Traditional (garlic butter, grated Romano and parmesan cheese), Rough-Neck (cream cheese and bacon topped with sautéed jalapenos and bell peppers), Rockefeller (creamed spinach with blended Italian cheeses), Shuck-a-Fella (cream based topping with crumbled bacon and finely chopped mushrooms) and Candied (crumbled feta and bleu cheese topped with Sugar Cane Pepper Glaze), this awesome appetizer is simply the best!

Shuckin’ Good

One of Shucks!’s “Shuckisms” is the Shuckin Flounder – fresh flounder filets stuffed with seafood stuffing, baked and topped with roasted red bell pepper cream sauce. The stuffing recipe was created by Istre’s mother-in-law and features an unusual addition – red new potatoes. Once you try it, you’ll be hooked on this unique creation.

Heavenly Bread

Be sure to save room for the Bread Pudding – topped with hot white chocolate buttered rum sauce. This is not your Mamma’s bread pudding – the 80 proof Bayou Rum from Lacassine, La. assures that. The author spied a customer who, in trying her first bite, mouthed the words, “Oh, my God!”