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When Hurricane Laura blasted through Lake Charles in August, 2020, Rita Nell Durgan had to make a decision. Her restaurant, Mama Reta’s Kitchen on Broad Street sustained major damage, and Lake Charles was without power and water for weeks. But Reta already had a dream – and fulfilled it in Lafayette.

On November 14, just three months after the disaster, Reta opened Mama Reta’s Kitchen at 6699 Johnston St. (Highway 167) the intersection of Driftwood Drive. Right now, this roadway is under construction, and the workers have discovered the delicious, filling plate lunches at Mama Reta’s. Former customers have driven from as far away as Houston just to satisfy their envie for her famous fried chicken.

And that’s no exaggeration. On a recent visit to the simple, comfy café, a truck driver shared that he used to regularly dine at Mama Reta’s when he drove through Lake Charles. Once he discovered that Reta had relocated, he diverted off the highway to nosh on her addictive fried chicken, lovingly made by Lee, Reta’s husband of 20 years.

For Reta, it was a difficult journey to reach her goal. She began working in high school at Church’s Chicken in Lake Charles. “I still have the burns on my arms,” she shares with a chuckle. She moved on to family-owned Tony’s Pizza, where she started off cutting lettuce. The owner noticed how fast she worked – and couldn’t help noticing her effervescent personality – so he moved her up front.

During her 18-year tenure at Tony’s, Reta dreamed of opening her own restaurant, but fate intervened. While working at a daycare in April 2014, Reta was diagnosed with breast cancer. “I found out I had breast cancer on my wedding anniversary,” she says sadly. A month later, she underwent surgery, but opted out of chemo and radiation. Fortunately, the cancer did not metastasize to her lymph nodes, and she went into remission.

Despite this life-threatening ordeal, Reta was determined to realize her dream. “I knew I had a plan for my life, and I just didn’t give up,” she recalls. “I know when a storm’s coming, there’s always sunshine on the side.” Later that year, on September 3, 2014, she launched Mama Reta’s Kitchen. The simple soul food spot offered plate lunches, fried chicken, burgers, poboys, seafood baskets and barbeque.

Then, the pandemic hit in March 2020. “It was usually a full house, and was down to 25 percent,” she says. After closing for two months, she was back in business.

That is, until Hurricane Laura, a Category 4 storm, hit Lake Charles on August 27, 2020. With sustained winds of 150 mph, the storm devastated downtown, including Mama Reta’s. The Durgan family evacuated to Gonzales, but Reta wanted to move closer to Lake Charles to check on her property. Her niece had an apartment in Lafayette, so Reta and Lee decided to relocate there.

Once she relocated to Acadiana, Reta started searching for her dream space. She wanted a place of less than 1500 square feet with a drive-thru in a high traffic area. She found it in a duplex shared with Goodwill on Johnston St. “As soon as I saw it, my head was rolling,” she recalls.

On November 14, Reta opened her Lafayette location. Gradually, neighbors and displaced Lake Charles and Sulphur residents discovered her new space, and started spreading the word. Lee, who works in the concrete industry, doubles as the chicken fryer on weekends. Reta’s lovely granddaughter, Alyssa, helps out in the front.

Over her six years in business, Reta has not changed the menu. She offers baked or fried chicken with red beans and rice on Monday; smothered pork steak with rice and gravy on Tuesday, meatloaf with mashed potatoes on Wednesday; smothered chicken with rice and brown gravy on Thursday, baked or fried fish with a choice of fries, onion rings or vegetable on Friday, and BBQ pork steak, BBQ ribs or fried chicken with rice dressing or cornbread dressing and a vegetable on Saturday. She also serves boxes of fried chicken, burgers, shrimp or catfish poboys and baskets, chicken and sausage gumbo and veggie plates daily. “I want to keep it simple, delicious and the costs down,” she explains.

Customers (including the author’s Lake Charles-based mom) love Reta’s home-style cooking, and keep coming back for more. In fact, on a recent Saturday, patrons started coming inside before opening time. Once you go, you’ll want to linger and visit with Reta – she’s a kick!

Mama Reta’s Kitchen is open Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 5 pm., and Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 3 p.m.

MUST HAVE DISHES

“It’s All About the Chicken”

Mama Reta’s fried chicken is so good that customers drive hundreds of miles – literally – to get it. Reta’s husband Lee makes the milk-and-egg batter himself, and fries the chicken until it’s perfectly crisp. Crunchy on the outside, juicy on the inside and perfectly seasoned, you’ll get addicted quickly to this kicky chicken.

Heavenly Plate

For a truly soulful experience, try one of Mama Reta’s delicious plate lunches, served with rice and gravy or mashed potatoes and your choice of vegetable. Pick from South Louisiana favorites like black-eyed peas, fried or smothered okra, mustard greens and red beans. All lunches come with a roll or cornbread and cake of the day. Talk about good!

Pit Masterful

Served on Saturday, Mama Reta’s barbeque pork steak and ribs are hogma heaven. The ribs are fork-tender and fall off the bone, and the pork steak is big and satisfying. Served with your choice of rice dressing or cornbread dressing (served Saturdays only), a vegetable, roll or cornbread, this Saturday Special Lunch is truly a treat!