“This dish makes a possibly scary ingredient approachable,” says Bay Area chef Duskie Estes, co-founder of ZAZU kitchen + farm and Black Pig Meat Company with husband and chef, John Stewart. (And Estes would know! She and her husband were crowned the “Queen and King of Pork” at the Grand Cochon at the Aspen Food & Wine Classic in 2011.)

Pastrami is traditionally made from beef brisket, but because Estes designed this recipe for a whole-pig cooking contest — the “pigstrami” was born in the spirit of using every part of the pig, including, in this case, the heart. 

Despite 23 years as a vegetarian, Estes says, “I cannot stop myself when eating these sandwiches!” She also adds that if you don’t have the time or tools to go through the smoking process, or making the mustard and sauerkraut, you can buy pastrami at your local deli counter, or from your favorite butcher, and use store-bought condiments. 

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“I ❤️ Pigstrami on Rye” Sandwich

• Sliced rye bread
• Pigstrami (see below)
• Guinness mustard aioli and horseradish sauerkraut (see below or use store-bought condiments)
• Watercress or arugula

For the Pigstrami:

• 6 pig hearts
• 1 gallon water, plus two quarts to be used later
• 1 cup kosher salt
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 4 Tbsp P1*
• Pinch of chili flakes
• Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
• Applewood chips
• 2 cans of your favorite beers 

*P1 is a salt used in curing and flavoring meats. You can find it in the meat seasoning and condiment aisle at your local grocery store, or online specialty food stores (like sausagemaker.com).

In a very bowl, combine water, salt, brown sugar, P1*, chili flakes and pepper with a whisk. Add hearts and let sit overnight in the refrigerator.

Remove hearts from mixture and smoke for 4 hours at 150°F with applewood chips.

Next, preheat oven to 325°F and braise hearts in 2 quarts of water and beer, covered for 4 hours. Let cool completely, then slice the hearts thinly using a meat slicer.

For the Guinness mustard aioli and horseradish sauerkraut:

Note: This delicious homemade mustard and sauerkraut recipes take a bit of time. The Guinness mustard requires a month, and the kraut takes about a week. You can substitute your favorite store-bought mustard and your sauerkraut if you’re short on time.

Guinness mustard aioli

• 1/2 cup yellow mustard seeds
• 1/2 cup brown mustard seeds
• 1 pint Guinness
• Apple cider vinegar

Combine mustard seeds and beer and cover at room temperature for a month. Each day, make sure the seeds are covered by topping off with a bit of vinegar. 

After one month, pour contents into a food processor and puree to desired consistency. Add more vinegar if necessary.

Horseradish sauerkraut

• 1 head green cabbage, cut into chiffonade (about 3 lbs)
• 1 1/2 Tbsp kosher salt
• 4 oz fresh horseradish, peeled and grated

In a medium-to-large bowl, toss together ingredients.

Store in an open mason jar topped with cheesecloth for one week at room temperature. Refrigerate until ready to use.

To assemble the sandwich:

Toast rye bread, then smear both sides with Guinness mustard aioli. Top with pigstrami, sauerkraut and watercress.