It’s not always obvious, but the universe really does work in mysterious ways. And when you begin to notice the signs and find yourself coming full circle, it feels as though the universe is telling you something you can’t ignore. That’s the way it was for The St. John Restaurant’s farm-to-table director Luke Dugas. 

Dugas, a St. Martinville native, graduated from LSU in Environmental Engineering with a focus on controlled environment agriculture – specifically aquaculture (growing fish), hydroponics (growing plants in water) and aquaponics (growing fish and plants in water together). He then replanted his southern roots to Denver where he worked as a system design engineer and salesperson for aquaponic systems. “I traveled all over the country consulting and building aquaponic farms for hobby and commercial growers, schools and communities.”

Back in Cajun Country, Chip Durand, owner of The St. John Restaurant in Dugas’ hometown had a vision to create an on-site greenhouse to supply the restaurant with fresh produce. After he purchased the property next to St. John, an old ice warehouse, he began construction. His vision was temporarily put on hold (as was the rest of the world during the pandemic), but soon the greenhouses were underway once again. 

 

As southern luck would have it, Dugas’ parents were dining at St. John one evening and learned of Durand’s plans for sustainable growing. They relayed the info to their son, who promptly called Durand in hopes of selling him a hundred-thousand-dollar aquaponic system. The two began a symbiotic relationship – Dugas explaining the benefits of hydro and aquaponics and Durand reminding Dugas of the slow-paced bayou life and the down-to-earth residents who have been longtime customers of the restaurant.  

The expensive, stainless steel system wasn’t a fit for the restaurant, but after a year-long discussion between the men, there was a new plan in place. “We recognized a need for a full-time position to construct, operate and oversee the greenhouse. So in the summer of 2022, I moved back to Louisiana to become farm-to-table director. This was a full circle moment – I was returning home with all that I’d learned.”

 The restaurant’s hydroponic system was custom-built to look like a natural addition to the St. John. Two narrow wooden tables fit the length of the greenhouse (with space for a third) maintaining the feel and look of the interior of the restaurant. On top of each table are Dutch buckets, 29 in total, each housing two plants. Above the tables is a pulley system of sorts with an LED light running on a timer, providing light to the plants. A reservoir beneath the tables pumps nutrients into the buckets. 

The plants don’t grow in soil, instead thriving in a naturally occurring porous material called perlite that essentially has the same job as soil. It absorbs water well and is an ideal foundation for plant roots to grow. However, perlite does not provide the plants with nutrients. That comes from the water.  

“Hydroponic growing is a form of cultivation in controlled environment agriculture,” Dugas explains. ‘The main benefit is the control that the grower has on the temperature, humidity, light and nutrients which can be controlled easier than traditional outdoor farming.”  Another benefit that Dugas is passionate about is the system’s sustainable water usage. “Our hydroponic systems are recirculating, meaning the same water is reused until it transpires through the plant’s leaves or evaporates out of the system. This allows us to get maximum use and benefits from the water with very limited waste, compared to traditional agriculture.”

When asked how he cares for the hydroponic system, Dugas jokingly answers, “With love!” Although the system is significantly automated and is relatively small in size, the plants require constant attention and care. “Plants have no idea if it’s Christmas Eve or your sister’s birthday,” Dugas quips. “The system must be monitored and maintained daily to achieve maximum production.” Dugas’ right hand man and fellow St. Martinville native Delanius Narcisse has been a tremendous help, learning all aspects from construction, seeding and transplanting. “Delanius has been a critical part of our success since day one.”

“I love engaging with people when they walk over to the greenhouses to see what’s inside,” Dugas tells us happily. “It’s rewarding to see others marvel at a project I’ve built. The St. John has the most loyal customers I’ve ever met. They expect a high-quality meal and a familiar atmosphere. I am honored to help deliver on that promise of fresh, local food with a story.”

As for Durand, the sustainable operation won’t stop at plants. “We will transition to aquaponics in the future – a symbiotic process where the fish waste will serve as a source of nutrients for the plants and the plants provide clean water for the fish.”  

Durand also operates a cattle farm and owns the land in front of Bayou Teche across from the St. John. He has plans to build a country store and meat market, so customers will be able to purchase the produce and fish from the greenhouses and meat from his cattle farm. It will truly be a one-stop-shop that has come full (Cajun sustainable) circle. ■