Going wild with fermented food: The tastiest what’s-old-is-new-again trend

From the sourdough breadmaking bandwagon to clandestine kombucha SCOBY sharing (Not familiar? Learn more about kombucha as well as how to easily make it yourself.), fermented food is the perfect what’s-old-is-new-again trend to try.

Before we get in too deep, a quick primer for all the newbies out there: Fermented foods are foods and beverages that have undergone controlled microbial growth and fermentation, which is an anaerobic process in which microorganisms like yeast and bacteria break down food components like sugars into other products (organic acids, gases or alcohol). According to the National Center for Biotechnology Information, this gives fermented foods their unique (and desirable to many) taste, aroma, texture and appearance.  

If you’re not yet familiar with how delicious and healthy fermented foods can be, we introduce you to one of the industry’s leading sustainable, fermented food producers: California-based wildbrine, which specializes in wild-fermenting organic produce. 

As a self-described science geek, wildbrine co-founder Chris Glab walks the intersection between food and science. The kitchen-office space he shares with co-founder, Rick Goldberg, is ground zero for the team’s constant experimentation and is just a stone’s throw away from one of its two factories. “We may play around with something here, then walk into the plant and get ready to run with it tomorrow,” says Glab. “We scale and tweak, and we can be pretty fast to market.”

He’s not joking. wildbrine’s line of products is growing fast, with a robust mix of uniquely flavored sauerkraut, kimchi, srirachas and fermented salsas, as well as a newer line of plant-based creamery products called wildCREAMERY.

“We’re constantly innovating and mixing new items in with a few old ones to keep things fresh,” says Glab.

This seamless connection between food and science, and idea and execution, are a big part of wildbrine’s magic.


Probiotics and the magic of fermentation

First: What’s this fusion of food and science all about? Fermented foods have been popping up on grocery shelves everywhere recently — from flavorful, jarred kimchis to alcohol-infused kombuchas.  Scientifically speaking, fermented foods have undergone controlled microbial growth and fermentation, resulting in “good bacteria” that keep your gut working properly.

“Wild” fermentation is what makes wildbrine’s products unique. Naturally occurring, beneficial microorganisms are allowed to grow at their own pace, in their own way. No yeasts or bacteria are introduced, and no soaps or sanitizers are used. “We create an environment that fosters reproduction and dominance of the organisms we want — specifically Lactobacillus. And we eventually eliminate the organisms we don’t want — pathogens like salmonella,” says Glab. (Lactobacillus are a type of “good” bacteria.)

To kick-off the process and build an environment supporting beneficial probiotic bacteria, wildbrine starts with freshly washed veggies. Produce is then mixed in a salty, seasoned brine and sealed into air-tight containers. Lactic acid-producing organisms (like Lactobacillus) feed on the fermenting veggies’ carbs and starches, distinct flavors start to form and pH levels drop. “All those bad things that get people sick — like salmonella, bad yeasts and molds — can’t survive at lower pH levels. But healthy bacteria can,” says Glab. “So, we achieve shelf-life and food safety without pasteurization or high pressure.” 


Embracing the wild(brine)

Glab and Goldberg first teamed up in 1990, with G&G Foods (for Glab and Goldberg). The from-scratch company began with a collection of traditional dairy and cheese spreads, salsas, hummus and prepared foods. 

After selling the flourishing business 16 years later, the duo went into semi-retirement. Glab turned to his love of science and studied sustainable farming. Goldberg volunteered with Ceres Community Project, a nonprofit based in Sebastopol, California, that’s committed to teaching middle and high school students about locally grown and organic foods. Ceres’ mission already included preparing and delivering meals, and Goldberg’s role was to help develop large quantities of naturally fermented kraut for the organization’s client base of elderly and cancer patients. 

“It was a cool thing. Teaching kids about nutrition, making real food and delivering it to people in need,” says Glab.  “Not only did kids learn how to cook … they experienced first-hand how food can be good medicine.”

Eventually, Goldberg got involved, too, and the duo worked to help Ceres grow their revenue stream by selling healthy foods to local stores. Ceres eventually suggested the twosome completely take over that part of the organization’s business. The pair jumped at the offer, naming their new venture wildbrine.

“Fermentation has a rich history, with lots of folklore. But it’s also edgy and artsy,” says Glab, of how the wildbrine name was born. “It reflects that farmstead heritage and still feels contemporary, too.”

In 2011, wildbrine’s first products, two kinds of sauerkrauts, hit local shelves. The following year, they participated in Expo West and “caught the tiger by the tail,” as Glab says of wildbrine’s success at the beginning of the probiotics boom.

Wild fermentation has been around for thousands of years,” says Glab. “But I don’t believe the full potential has yet been seen.” Today, wildbrine is taking those traditional fermented products and flipping the script to introduce unique flavors. “We make different flavor profiles with our sauerkrauts and kimchi, and are using fermentation techniques to expand into other areas, too,” he says of wildCREAMERY’s wild-fermented, plant-based dairy products.


Focusing on fresh food — and zero waste

High-quality, 100% fresh produce is essential to wildbrine’s mission. But it doesn’t stop there. The company strives to be a zero-waste producer, too.

Partnering with growers along the West Coast, widbrine chases the sun to source their products and proactively minimize food waste. “We’ve got farmers in Watsonville and Salinas that we use in the summer, and in the winter, we’ll go down to Southern California,” says Glab. Three-to-four-month succession-planting contracts mean wildbrine’s farmers grow specifically what is needed for the coming production cycle, minimizing future waste.

About 95% of the produce wildbrine collects is packaged into products. The remaining 5% is utilized in different ways. For example, wildbrine uses the inner, crunchy cabbage leaves for their kraut recipes. The remaining outer leaves and inner core are upcycled into other products, like sriracha. The little food wildbrine can’t use is collected daily by local farmers and fed to their animals. 

As business continues to boom, Glab enjoys brainstorming new ways to bring healthy, delicious products to his customers. “I feel like I do my best work right here in the kitchen, getting flavoring or viscosity just right.”